How long should it take for your taxidermist to mount a fish? People say a year is common, and to never rush a taxidermist.
Well, I've mounted fish for over 30 years now, so I think I'm finally qualified to answer this question and maybe even spill the beans on the truth.
It doesn't take that long, so I'll break it down for you.
Thaw the fish and make the body pattern: 1 hr.
Skin and flesh the fish: 1 hr.
Carve the body: 1hr.
Preserve the skin and mount the fish: 1hr. (includes setting the fins)
Dry Period: (variable based on humidity), but usually 1 wk.
Coat Fins: 0.5 hrs.
Rebuild / Epoxy work: 0.5 hrs.
Prep for paint / Tip Scales: 1hr
Paint Fish and Gloss: 1hr (variable based on fish species)
Time available: I have turned a fish mount in two weeks or less, without any concerns or issues.
If a taxidermist tells you any different, "They haven't even started your fish!" I can assure you, don't be afraid to call and ask how its coming, or ask for a text with a picture. Sometimes a little concern or reminder will help move the process along. I try and text each customer a picture as soon as the fish is mounted, so they can see it in the drying room.
What is an acceptable amount of time to get your fish back? In my opinion, 1 to 6 months based on the taxidermists back log.
If you want great work, very competitive prices, and quick turn around times - check out www.MurphysFishTaxidermy.com
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Fiberglass Fish Failure
Well, over the weekend I attempted to cast the first fish in my new, 2 part bondo/resin fish mold. Remember, I was very happy with how the mold turned out. I followed Gary Bruschs' instructions and the mold came out just exactly like his articles showed in BreakThrough Magazine.
The rubber mold and cast of the interior of the fish mouth also worked out extremely well. The detail is awesome. This part was easier than I expected.
As hard as it is to admit, the first fish casting was an complete failure, to the point that I may have rendered the mold unusable. The fish came out of the mold in pieces. Where did I go wrong? If I had to guess, I would bet that I didn't wait long enough for the wax and release to dry before I started to apply the gel coat. I immediately noticed that as I applied the gel coat, it was not "sticking to the mold", each time I picked up the brush, up came the gel coat...I knew right away that I was in trouble. Then, to make matter worse, the first layer of resin mixed in with the gelcoat. I think I was supposed to wait for the gelcoat to cure before I added the straight resin layer? Two layers of resin and some fiberglass chop....what a mess, it didn't apply or lay into the mold evenly.
I'm going to try to reclaim the mold, make some minor repairs and attempt to cast again this weekend. I'm embarrassed to show you a picture of the failed fish casting until I can show it next to a casting that I'm proud to put my name on, Murphy's Fish Taxidermy.
Obviously, the YouTube videos and the articles in BreakThrough Magazine leave out some minor details regarding casting a fish. I questioned how long to wait after waxing the mold?: How much catalyst to add?; do I let each layer cure before adding the next?
After this weekends re-attempt, I will share with you where I went wrong and try and include some of these very minor details that will make a big difference in your success if you attempt to mold and cast a fish.
The rubber mold and cast of the interior of the fish mouth also worked out extremely well. The detail is awesome. This part was easier than I expected.
As hard as it is to admit, the first fish casting was an complete failure, to the point that I may have rendered the mold unusable. The fish came out of the mold in pieces. Where did I go wrong? If I had to guess, I would bet that I didn't wait long enough for the wax and release to dry before I started to apply the gel coat. I immediately noticed that as I applied the gel coat, it was not "sticking to the mold", each time I picked up the brush, up came the gel coat...I knew right away that I was in trouble. Then, to make matter worse, the first layer of resin mixed in with the gelcoat. I think I was supposed to wait for the gelcoat to cure before I added the straight resin layer? Two layers of resin and some fiberglass chop....what a mess, it didn't apply or lay into the mold evenly.
I'm going to try to reclaim the mold, make some minor repairs and attempt to cast again this weekend. I'm embarrassed to show you a picture of the failed fish casting until I can show it next to a casting that I'm proud to put my name on, Murphy's Fish Taxidermy.
Obviously, the YouTube videos and the articles in BreakThrough Magazine leave out some minor details regarding casting a fish. I questioned how long to wait after waxing the mold?: How much catalyst to add?; do I let each layer cure before adding the next?
After this weekends re-attempt, I will share with you where I went wrong and try and include some of these very minor details that will make a big difference in your success if you attempt to mold and cast a fish.
Monday, April 29, 2013
Fish Replica By Murphy's Fish Taxidermy
Well, I mentioned that Murphy's Fish Taxidermy would post my progress regarding molding and casting my first fish replica, so here it is. I can say that I'm very pleased with how it went over the weekend. Just a couple disappointments.
I didn't get a big enough walleye last week in the Detroit River, so I headed out Saturday to a private pond to see if I could get a bass that would be acceptable. It didn't take 20 minutes, and I had a decision to make. I decided it was barely acceptable, but an 18" largemouth would be molded as my first fiberglass replica.
Within minutes, I put the fish in a cooler filled with water and 2 bags of ice. The cold water would help keep the fish calm during transportation and later while it was being handled. Once home, I prepared my resins, rubbers, catalysts & bedding material. I was fully committed. First, I prepared the fish to pour a cast of the interior of the mouth. First mistake; next time I will seal the esophagus closed with glue. I wasted expensive rubber that filled the stomach cavity of the fish. (more detail than I needed). Once setup, the rubber mouth plug was easily removed, and from what I could tell - it looked perfect!
Next, I thoroughly washed the fish with borax to remove the slime. I dried the fish and positioned it, with mouth plug in), in the high fiber bedding material. I was a little concerned how the mouth plug blew out the gill rays and operculum more than I hoped. Once clean and dry, I sprayed a light coat of acrylic gloss over the fish to seal it. The Bondo:Resin mix was catalyzed and poured. I was glad to see it start to set up and do what I thought it was supposed to (I was guessing with the proper amount of cream hardener).
I finished one side, flipped it, and did the other. Mistake #2; I forgot to set side #1 in bedding material before I poured side #2. ( At this point I was convinced the outside edges of the mold would bond, and I would have a permanently encased fish in a cocoon of Bondo and resin). To my surprise, after trimming the outside edges of the mold on the band saw, I was able to split the mold open with ease.
I removed the fish, cleaned the mold with soap, and a bristled brush under cold.water. It was very pleased with the shape and the detail, except for the leading dorsal spiny ray. It was tucked behind spiny ray #2, and I didn't notice, duh. I think I can alter the mold and make it work.
Now, Its time to cast the fish this weekend. I ordered "UnWaxed" Gelcoat and a specialty, translucent resin for the fins. Maybe this weekend I will finish this project up. I've got to thank Dave from Envisions 3D for his enlightenment, Gary Brusch for his informative articles in BreakThrough Magazine and a company named, Brick In The Yard - for their help selecting resins.
I will keep you posted.
I didn't get a big enough walleye last week in the Detroit River, so I headed out Saturday to a private pond to see if I could get a bass that would be acceptable. It didn't take 20 minutes, and I had a decision to make. I decided it was barely acceptable, but an 18" largemouth would be molded as my first fiberglass replica.
Within minutes, I put the fish in a cooler filled with water and 2 bags of ice. The cold water would help keep the fish calm during transportation and later while it was being handled. Once home, I prepared my resins, rubbers, catalysts & bedding material. I was fully committed. First, I prepared the fish to pour a cast of the interior of the mouth. First mistake; next time I will seal the esophagus closed with glue. I wasted expensive rubber that filled the stomach cavity of the fish. (more detail than I needed). Once setup, the rubber mouth plug was easily removed, and from what I could tell - it looked perfect!
Next, I thoroughly washed the fish with borax to remove the slime. I dried the fish and positioned it, with mouth plug in), in the high fiber bedding material. I was a little concerned how the mouth plug blew out the gill rays and operculum more than I hoped. Once clean and dry, I sprayed a light coat of acrylic gloss over the fish to seal it. The Bondo:Resin mix was catalyzed and poured. I was glad to see it start to set up and do what I thought it was supposed to (I was guessing with the proper amount of cream hardener).
I finished one side, flipped it, and did the other. Mistake #2; I forgot to set side #1 in bedding material before I poured side #2. ( At this point I was convinced the outside edges of the mold would bond, and I would have a permanently encased fish in a cocoon of Bondo and resin). To my surprise, after trimming the outside edges of the mold on the band saw, I was able to split the mold open with ease.
I removed the fish, cleaned the mold with soap, and a bristled brush under cold.water. It was very pleased with the shape and the detail, except for the leading dorsal spiny ray. It was tucked behind spiny ray #2, and I didn't notice, duh. I think I can alter the mold and make it work.
Now, Its time to cast the fish this weekend. I ordered "UnWaxed" Gelcoat and a specialty, translucent resin for the fins. Maybe this weekend I will finish this project up. I've got to thank Dave from Envisions 3D for his enlightenment, Gary Brusch for his informative articles in BreakThrough Magazine and a company named, Brick In The Yard - for their help selecting resins.
I will keep you posted.
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Murphys Fish Replica Molding and Casting
Its early Spring 2013, and I put the rod and reel to use today for the first time this season. I'm searching for the perfect fish specimen to mold and cast a replica in fiberglass resin. Today's catch didn't provide me with a fish for replicating.
After 30 years of skin mounting fish as a taxidermist, I've decided to make an attempt at fiberglass replicas. I've learned that its easier to produce a great looking fish with a replica. Many times a skin mounted fish drys so dark that its difficult to get the perfect coloration with the airbrush. Replica blanks are expensive to purchase, and I don't have the time I need to catch fresh prototypes to skin mount. So, I've decided to mold and cast my own replicas! This will allow me to produce a trophy fish even when the fish aren't biting.
Early next week, I'm hoping to put the perfect specimen, a fat 25" to 28" Walleye in the cooler. A fat walleye will get me started.
Murphys Fish Taxidermy has purchased all the resin, Bondo, fiberglass mat and release agents that it will take to produce my first fish replica. I have learned a ton about the process from YouTube and Breakthrough Magazine, so I've decided it would only be fair that I blog my experience through the entire process to share with others.
Today's catch consisted of a handful of small black crappies and a few largemouth bass. Better luck on Tuesday. Once completed, I hope to have the perfect prototype to properly market FishUrns.com
After 30 years of skin mounting fish as a taxidermist, I've decided to make an attempt at fiberglass replicas. I've learned that its easier to produce a great looking fish with a replica. Many times a skin mounted fish drys so dark that its difficult to get the perfect coloration with the airbrush. Replica blanks are expensive to purchase, and I don't have the time I need to catch fresh prototypes to skin mount. So, I've decided to mold and cast my own replicas! This will allow me to produce a trophy fish even when the fish aren't biting.
Early next week, I'm hoping to put the perfect specimen, a fat 25" to 28" Walleye in the cooler. A fat walleye will get me started.
Murphys Fish Taxidermy has purchased all the resin, Bondo, fiberglass mat and release agents that it will take to produce my first fish replica. I have learned a ton about the process from YouTube and Breakthrough Magazine, so I've decided it would only be fair that I blog my experience through the entire process to share with others.
Today's catch consisted of a handful of small black crappies and a few largemouth bass. Better luck on Tuesday. Once completed, I hope to have the perfect prototype to properly market FishUrns.com
Monday, April 1, 2013
Fish Mounts versus Fish Replicas in Michigan
Fishermen have several options these days when it comes to commemorating the catch of a lifetime. Fish mounts (or fish skin taxidermy), may not be as common as it used to be, since fiberglass replicas have become so incredibly realistic. Another option is a hand-carved fish replica, sometimes carved from urethane foam or wood. So what is the dilemma when making your decision? Do you keep the fish or release it? Is it expensive?
Certainly, catch and release is an honorable thing to do however, how many fish do you catch that are actually mountable? What can you afford? This can be a tough decision for some, so what is the cost of a fish reproduction vs. a fish skin mount?
Here is what has happened in the fish taxidermy industry. Some 20 years ago, a quality taxidermist could charge $8-$12 per inch (for a skin mounted fish), and make a decent living as a full time taxidermist. Today (20 + years later), a quality fish taxidermist is still only charging between $10-$15 per inch, and struggles to make a living if at all.
Fiberglass fish replicas have much better detail with the new molding/casting materials available, but it has added an additional expense to both taxidermist and customer. Many taxidermists will charge between $13-$20 per inch for a replica. For the customer, that might mean a 20 inch bass could cost between $325 to $400. Wow, that's expensive! Due to the expense of the fish mold (or blank), there is not much profit left for the taxidermist to make a living.
Fish carvings are very artistic and they often look incredibly realistic however, most carvers will charge a premium because each fish is a work of art. It's so expensive to get a fish reproduction anymore!
I suggest you ask around and find a talented taxidermist, such as Murphy's Fish Taxidermy in Howell, MI.
Many talented taxidermists/artists now have full time jobs outside the home, and taxidermy is just a hobby. What does this mean to you? It means prices can still be affordable for a skin mount. Fish mounts for $10 per inch and fish replicas for $13 per inch is affordable to most. The quality and talent out there is more available than ever. Visit http://www.Murphysfishtaxidermy.com, you can still get that fish of a lifetime on the wall - without breaking the bank.
Certainly, catch and release is an honorable thing to do however, how many fish do you catch that are actually mountable? What can you afford? This can be a tough decision for some, so what is the cost of a fish reproduction vs. a fish skin mount?
Here is what has happened in the fish taxidermy industry. Some 20 years ago, a quality taxidermist could charge $8-$12 per inch (for a skin mounted fish), and make a decent living as a full time taxidermist. Today (20 + years later), a quality fish taxidermist is still only charging between $10-$15 per inch, and struggles to make a living if at all.
Fiberglass fish replicas have much better detail with the new molding/casting materials available, but it has added an additional expense to both taxidermist and customer. Many taxidermists will charge between $13-$20 per inch for a replica. For the customer, that might mean a 20 inch bass could cost between $325 to $400. Wow, that's expensive! Due to the expense of the fish mold (or blank), there is not much profit left for the taxidermist to make a living.
Fish carvings are very artistic and they often look incredibly realistic however, most carvers will charge a premium because each fish is a work of art. It's so expensive to get a fish reproduction anymore!
I suggest you ask around and find a talented taxidermist, such as Murphy's Fish Taxidermy in Howell, MI.
Many talented taxidermists/artists now have full time jobs outside the home, and taxidermy is just a hobby. What does this mean to you? It means prices can still be affordable for a skin mount. Fish mounts for $10 per inch and fish replicas for $13 per inch is affordable to most. The quality and talent out there is more available than ever. Visit http://www.Murphysfishtaxidermy.com, you can still get that fish of a lifetime on the wall - without breaking the bank.
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